It’s 7 p.m. on the Thursday before Easter, and Villié-Morgon is bustling. Parents and their kids stream into the church of Saint Vincent, while the shops are bursting with Easter eggs and rabbit decorations.
This town of 1,700 people is at the center of an appellation that seems to have its act together. While Beaujolais is little more than an hour south of Beaune in Burgundy, it seems a world apart from the grandeur of the Côte d’Or. Still, Morgon is the cru with a climat spirit that’s closest to what you find in Burgundy.
Maybe that’s because its vineyards are owned by heavy hitters of Beaujolais crus: Dominique Piron, Jean-Marc Burgaud, Jean Foillard, Mathieu Lapierre and Louis-Claude Desvignes. They make wines that are “serious” when young and that can age for many years, when they become similar to red Burgundy. (To pinote, or become like Pinot Noir, is the local term.)